Monday, October 13, 2008

Budapest, Hungary

I start off in Budapest with a free walking tour. I figure its a good way to get to know the city. And since the guide is Hungarian, it's a good way to get a Hungarian perspective on the city. We get a quick history lesson:

Hungary used to be a huge kingdom that included Croatia, Serbia, Slovakia, and parts of Romania. However they allied themselves with the axis powers in WWI and had 72% of their land "stolen". Hungarians are pretty pissed about this loss and I even saw a "Greater Hungary" map at a Hungarian's home. When WWII came around, Hitler promised the Hungarians they'd get their land back, but "unfortunately" Hungary lost the war. It is a little difficult to sympathize with my tour guide, considering that if Hungary had won the war I probably wouldn't be alive. My tour guide is also no fan of "Russians" though the Soviets did mess up Hungary pretty bad. In the "House of Terror" museum, they prominently display a quote by Stalin that reads "I don't care what happens to the Hungarians".

On Friday night, I decide I'll check out a local synagogue. I do some research and find one that sounds cool. I call ahead of time but the lady on the phone speaks neither English nor Hebrew, so I decide I'll just crash the service. When I get there, a guard tells me that they'd had some security issues so I can't go in. I talk to him in Hebrew and that still isn't enough. Finally he agrees that if I bring my Israeli passport he'll let me in. I go back to my hostel, get my passport, and make the end of the service. The service is in Hebrew, but I can't find where we are in the prayer book. The prayer books have Hebrew on the right side and Hungarian on the left side. I ask a neighbor for help and find it funny when he points to where we are on the Hungarian side. Thanks buddy!

I'm in Budapest over Yom Kippur, the most important Jewish Holiday. It's the holiday of Atonement, and after Oktoberfest I have plenty of material. I had met a cool German-Jewish dude at a CouchSurfing meeting, and was CouchSurfing with an Israeli guy, so I decide get to drag them both to service. We get some free food out of it, and then head to the biggest synagogue in Europe for Yom Kippur services. Overall a pretty cool experience.

From Budapest, Hungary


From Budapest, Hungary


A few days later, I go to my first European football game. It is a world cup qualifying match between Hungary and Albania. Unfortunately, we sit in the posh $12 seats instead of the $5 working class seats. Those guys are INSANE. They chant loudly the whole game waving flags, and have to be dispersed by riot police at the end of the game. Hia! Hia! Hia! Hungaaaaaaaria!

From Budapest, Hungary


Later I go caving underneath Budapest. You expect a nice walk through some caves but it ends up being some hardcore crawling on your knees ninja action. (Apologies in advance for the cameltoe shot)

From Budapest, Hungary


The highlight of Budapest is definitely the thermal baths. The Turkish Ottoman Empire occupied Hungary for 150 years which was mostly a bummer. But when the Hungarians finally kicked them out, they kept the Turkish baths. Imagine the largest complex of hot baths, saunas, and steam rooms you have ever seen. And it's co-ed which doesn't hurt. For $15 a day, you can't go wrong. Chess with old Hungarian men in speedos is included.

From Budapest, Hungary


From Budapest, Hungary


Checkmate old man!

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