Sunday, November 23, 2008

Serbia - Politics in the Air

My first day in Belgrade, I head out to hit the usual tourist spots. On the way I run into a small protest. Intrigued, I approach to see what's going on. A Serbian journalist explains to me that it's a protest against NATO regarding Kosovo. The purpose is to petition the Serbian government to investigate missing Serbs in Kosovo as a result of the Kosovo War. People are holding anti-NATO and anti-EU signs. During the 1999 Kosovo War, US planes bombed military targets in Belgrade - massive destroyed buildings are still visible. When asked where I am from, I answer "Israel". This is the first time on my trip I don't answer "America" when asked that question. I had considered answering "Canada" (as some Americans in Europe apparently do regularly) but homie ain't goin out like that. (The rest of the time in Serbia I answered "American" and never received a negative response.)

From Belgrade, Serbia


The protest itself was very small in number, and the organizer repeatedly attempted to convince people from the street to join. Most of the people involved were old, holding up what looked like pictures of their missing adult children. The organizer was speaking into a megaphone, and at one point had to pause as his hand shook and he seemed to be on the verge of tears. An elderly woman walked over to him and told him to take a break.

Regardless of the politics, I could only feel sorry for these people. It was obvious they didn't have much support. And they all had lost loved ones.

Later on I saw a huge banner hung in the main square that said "Stop NATO facism" in Serbian. There were three people standing there, while people who passed by barely seemed to notice.

From Belgrade, Serbia


Speaking with Serbians about Kosovo, I've gotten different reactions. One girl said she couldn't care less about Kosovo - most Serbians have never been there, and Serbs now make up a tiny minority of the Kosovo population. Another girl told me a story of her friend that went to a Serbian wedding in Kosovo, only to get shot at. At one point I (stupidly) told a Serbian girl that I was excited to visit Kosovo because it's a "new country". Visibly agitated, she responded "not really."

While in Serbia, I took a night to visit Novi Sad - a student town north of Belgrade. The town is beautiful, and I partied with a crazy local CouchSurfer DJ / Producer until 3am. He missed his bus home so I snuck him into my hostel. I introduced him to American peanut butter (I always have some on me), and he crashed in my room. In the morning he snuck out before the hostel lady arrived. I'll consider it my first CouchSurfing "hosting" experience :)

Back in Belgrade, I went to an awesome house party at a CouchSurfer's house. I held my own in Foosball, and played a mean "My Name is Jonas" on Guitar Hero. Then I headed out to explore the legendary Belgrade nightlife.

In Serbia, I met up with two Aussie girls that I had met in Sarajevo. I ended up hanging out with one of them all week, including the trip to Novi Sad. I'm headed towards Sofia, and she's going to Budapest, so we're splitting off, but I'll really miss her :(

From Belgrade, Serbia

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